La Baume Saint Veredeme
La Baume Saint Veredeme lets you immerse yourself in the Uzetian countryside. It’s part hike, part swimming excursion, with a bit of cave exploration thrown in. And if you come on a weekday, chances are you’ll probably have the place to yourself.
Saint Veredeme was a hermit, born about 600 a.d., who exiled himself to this wild and rugged part of the Uzeges to find peace, contemplation and solitude.
He built his hermitage on a bend in the Gardon river, high up the cliff. There he heard nothing more than the wind, the birds in the trees, and the smooth flow of water.
The path that leads to the hermitage has been greatly improved (it used to be a scramble), and is much safer than the image above suggests. At its end, below a thick overhanging of rock, you will be treated to beautiful views of the river below.
The path continues to the chapel, which is still a site of pilgrimage today (as mementos and written prayers for solace left on the altar will suggest).
Do remember to look upward and admire the chapel’s beautifully-painted ceiling, which has aspects of cerulean and cobalt blue.
Visitors may then continue along the path (protected by a stone wall) and enter the 150 meter deep cave, the opening of which looms large.
The cave literally passes through the mountain: you enter on one side and exit on the other, and will provide a memory you will not forget.
The cave is large and the walking surface is even. There’s no spelunking to be done here, just a pleasant exploration to be enjoyed. (Bring a lighter along and light the tea candles that have been placed on the cave wall for visitors. It’s a magical sight. (But do remember to blow them out afterward so the next visitor can enjoy the cave as much as you did.)
Two medieval water mills can be explored after your visit to the upper site has ended. The larger one to the left was damaged by floods centuries ago, and the one on the opposite bank—a submersible mill—is fascinating.
Examining it proves that, whatever the people of the “Dark” Ages were; uncreative was not one of them. The mill represents an impressive feat of engineering.
You will find, as Saint Veredeme did, that La Baume is a place full of peace. It would be a shame to hurry back. Bring a lunch and enjoy a picnic along the banks of the river. Enjoy the feeling of the warm sun, and let the calming influence of the Gardon river work on you. This, is most definitely a stress-free zone.
You may even be tempted to take a swim. The water is clean, full of fish, and guaranteed to be refreshing…
As in cold, even in the middle of summer! The Gardon runs deep underground for much of its course, and as a result is what can only euphemistically be termed…brisk.
It’s amazing how the waters in the Uzeges can vary. The water of the Ardeche river, 45 minutes driving to the north, is balmy, almost bathtub-like. Most pleasant. But there’s a little inlet there, near a rock that people like to jump off, that is positively glacial. Keeping your hands in it is sure to quickly make them go numb; and the Gardon river is a little bit like that, though not as extreme.
TIPS:
• It can get hot at La Baume during the height of summer. Bring refreshments.
• The hike can be a bit rocky on the descent to the river. Wearing proper shoes is advised.
• Ask at the tourist office if the cave is open. At times it is closed due to the bat migration.]
• Obviously, and this bears repeating: be prudent on the cliff. It’s not like you’re going to be scaling a mountain, but you wouldn’t want to take a tumble either. And if you bring children along, keep an eye on them. It’s safe…as long as you’re prudent.
• To that end, the community has improved the path that leads up to the site, which is a bit of a disappointment. You used to be able to enter the chapel, and they’ve kind of gussied-up the place. It’s nicer, unquestionably safer, but has taken an edge off the place, imo.
• Finally, don’t leave valuables in your car. There is very little crime in France, and even less violent crime: much less than in the USA; but break-ins can happen, especially at remote trailheads.
GETTING THERE:
It’s a bit tricky, but well worth it.
Drive to Sanilhac/Sangries from Uzes (the Tourist Office may even have a hiking map available). Find the Boulangerie Chaparra (thank you, Google Maps) and turn into the hills, taking the Chemin de la Baume. The road will eventually bear to the right and deposit you at a rudimentary trailhead. (It may very well be signposted now; the community is doing amazingly helpful work in making the area more easy to navigate).
Follow the wide dirt road uphill. You will definitely find signs at the crest of the plateau. You will then branch off to the right and begin to drop down to the river. It gets rocky, but you’ll soon reach the river. Turn left..and enjoy!