There are two, especially beautiful ways to approach Uzes. From the east, the Saint Siffret side, one drives through seas of grape vines and beneath shade-providing allées of plane trees, before initiating the winding Serre Bonnet (“Tighten your bonnet”) climb that brings you to Uzes. The park-like setting of umbrella pines, white limestone boulders, and deep green of the oaks make it memorable.

 The approach from the west is much the same, only with more vineyards. If the Saint Siffret approach has seas of vines, then there are entire oceans to be found there. They don’t seem to end. (One day, we wondered if it might be possible to drive to Ales without ever being out of sight of a vineyard. I don’t remember exactly how it turned out, but have the impression that there was one part of the drive that was without. But only a small one.

From the west, you don’t notice Uzes at first: and then it appears in the middle distance, set on a green hill. All pretty and shiny. And all around you, the gorgeous Uzetian countryside unfolds.