Antiquing in L’Isle sur la Sorgue is what Provence is all about. Come on a weekday, and it’s pretty quiet. Come on a Sunday when the antiques market is in full swing, and it’s packed. But always…it’s beautiful.
It seems that you’re never far removed from the flow of water here. Isle sur la Sorgue (literally: the island in the Sorgue) is a small town split by the river Sorgue. Moss-covered water wheels slowly turn. The water flows, gurgles and often crashes. Most of the permanent antique boutiques are found on the far side of the river; with the center of this charming town being round on the other. Easily walkable, it’s an antique-lover’s dream.
The center of town lies just off the smoothly-flowing Sorgue river. A road is set off the river, just outside the left side of the image above. That’s where most (but certainly not all) the antiquaires are.
It’s not exactly Venice, but is nevertheless charming. Whenever we visit, we drift through the many antique stores; from one end to the other. Then we take a small bridge across the Sorgue and enter the town. There’s a pastry shop, more antique stores, and the requisite good restaurants.
But your visit to Isle sur la Sorgue shouldn’t end there. There’s more. Only a few miles out of town lies the source of the river Sorgue. It’s not to be missed.
It’s best to come on a weekday, because Fontaine de Vaucluse gets quite busy during tourist season. There’s a wonderful little restaurant with terrace at the bottom of the village. There, you can enjoy a nice meal while the water rushes by. (It’s loud.)
And it gets louder. Soon, the river is roaring as it rushes downstream. Visitors take the (single) road that gently leads ever upward. There are a few things to see, but nothing will take your eyes off the water for very long.
The amazing thing is: all this water comes from a tranquil pool of water gathering at the head of the canyon. It’s the largest spring in France, and the fifth-biggest in the world. Here, halfway up, the water smashes into everything it meets on its way. And higher up, it’s as gentle as can be. Almost an aquatic whisper.
Note how billiard-table smooth the water is to the left, and contrast with its already taking on a wild air to the right.
Figure on a 40 minute drive to Isle sur la Sorgue, and about ten more to Fontaine de Vaucluse.